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Since I was a teenager, my family have been going to Northumberland every year for our dedicated ‘dog holidays’. Bamburgh is the place we have returned to the most, offering a stunning dog friendly beach, cosy cafes and lots to do nearby. Whether you’ve got a dog you want to take on holiday, or are looking for a ‘small village vibe’ get away, Bamburgh could be the place for you.
Bamburgh Castle
History
My love for Bamburgh’s history is definitely biased as I wrote my undergraduate dissertation on the development of the castle. Northumbria used to be the most powerful of the seven Anglo Saxon kingdoms, and Bamburgh was the capital. But, to not bore you with 10,000 words of detail, here are my two top historical sites for visitors.
The Castle
Sitting atop a craggy outcrop, 45 metres above sea level, the castle offers striking views of the rugged north eastern coast. It was first built in wood by Ida the Flamebearer. Remaining in the family, the fortress fell into disrepair after waves of Viking attacks in the late 900s. It wasn’t until 1095, when the son of William the Conqueror identified Bamburgh as an important stronghold against Scotland, that the first part of the stone castle which can be visited today was erected: the keep. Since, the castle has been a home for monarchs, lords, doctors and even prisoners. It became the location of the country’s first coastguard system, where a gun was fired from the ramparts during foggy weather, and the launch place of the first ever lifeboat.
If you decide to visit, you can view generations of aretacts and heirlooms which tell the story of the castle’s various owners. There’s also an amazing collection of historical weaponry.
St. Aidan's Church
The other building of huge historical significance in Bamburgh is St. Aidan's Church. The site was first used for Christian worship in 635 AD when St Aiden, the ‘Apostle of Northumbria’ built a wooden church. The current stone building dates back to the 12th century and is said to have the second longest chancel in the country.
St. Aiden’s is now a working parish church, but non-religious tourists can still find interest in the crypt, which holds the remains of 110 individuals who died in the 7th and 8th centuries. You will also find the church has some beautiful stained glass, various relics, memorials and monuments to important local historical figures.
Things to do in Bamburgh
In addition to visiting the Castle and its grounds, or St. Aiden’s Church, there are many other things to do in Bamburgh for a relaxed day out.
Beach
The absolute best thing about Bamburgh is the beach. Sand, rockpools and dogs living their best life - what more could you want! I personally have not braved swimming in the sea but, when wrapped up in a windproof jacket, Bamburgh beach offers long stretches of sand and beautiful views of the castle. Just watch out for jellyfish!
RNLI Grace Darling Museum
If you’re interested in local history, the Grace Darling Museum is a must. Born in 1815, Grace was a lighthouse keeper’s daughter. She became recognised as a national heroine when, at the age of 22, she risked her life to save the survivors of the shipwrecked Forfarshire. The sea was too rough for a lifeboat and so Grace and her father took a row boat to meet the remaining nine survivors out of 62.
The museum is a charming site that takes you through Grace’s Victorian upbringing, the events of the rescue and the aftermath. Once you’ve taken in the history, I highly recommend taking a boat trip out to the Farne Islands to see the famous lighthouse.
Coffee and a cake (or ice cream!)
Of course, no cosy seaside village would be complete without a great range of cafes offering homemade cakes and hot drinks. A personal favourite of mine is the Copper Kettle. Out the back is a tucked away garden where you can bring dogs to enjoy a crumb or two of your cake.
There are also a couple of shops which offer delicious ice cream. Mostly these are on the main village street but an ice cream van does frequent the beach carpark off The Wynding road during the summer months.
Seahouses
You can take the bus or walk 4 miles along the beach to end up at Seahouses, a popular historic fishing village. Here you’ll find British seaside classics like fish and chips, crazy golf and tourist shops. Down by the harbour, you’ll find many boat trips to go see the local wildlife of the Farne Islands, including grey seals, puffins and various other seabirds. One year I was lucky enough to see dolphins!
Farne Islands and Grey Seals
Lindisfarne
The Holy Island of Lindisfarne is a tidal island that can be visited at certain hours during the day. It was an important site of Christianity during the Anglo Saxon period and is perhaps most famous for the viking invasions which began the Viking Age of Britain.
Only about 160 people live there today. Some of the things to see and do include a mid-1500’s castle, the ruins of Lindisfarne Priory (which are from the 11th century building, not the original 7th century), drink mead at St. Aidan’s Winery, and walk the tidal path to the even smaller St. Cuthbert’s Island where he was said to come for some peace and quiet.
Alnwick
About a 30 minute drive south from Bamburgh is the town of Alnwick. You’ll find another stunning castle (used as a film spot for Harry Potter), beautiful gardens and various National Trust sites. However, the main attraction is Barter Books - one of the largest second hand bookshops in the UK. Oh, and did I mention it’s dog friendly! I have spent many hours in this shop, and can promise you that you won’t leave empty handed.
How to get to Bamburgh
By far, the easiest way to get to Bamburgh is by car. The village is about 5 miles off the A1 but there are also a few B roads which will take you along the more scenic route, such as the B1340 coastal route. Parking in the centre of the village is limited and can get particularly busy in the summer months. However, there are various other parking spots either by the beach or up near the castle.
The bus is the best form of public transport in the area. During the summer there is an hourly service in both main directions out of the village. This goes down to a two-hourly service in the winter. You can find more information on the Parish Council’s website.
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